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Kitchen lighting ideas and design advice from our lighting designers, from island pendants and spotlights to under-cabinet light and scenes.
A kitchen is lit for more jobs than any other room. Bright, shadow-free light for chopping and cooking, softer light for eating together, and something gentle for the evening, often all in one open-plan space.
Good kitchen lighting design plans for all of them. It starts with three layers of light, each on its own circuit, placed around the worktops, island and table rather than in a grid across the ceiling. This guide covers how our designers approach it, with the measurements and details that make the difference.
If you are planning a new kitchen or an extension, talk to us early. The best results come from a lighting plan agreed before first fix, while cables can still go exactly where they are needed.
Every well-lit kitchen is built from the same three layers. Planned together and switched separately, they let one room do everything.
The general light that fills the room. Usually recessed spotlights or track, sometimes a ceiling light or a cove of hidden LED. It should be even and comfortable, and always on a dimmer.
Focused, brighter light where the work happens: over the island, along the worktops, at the hob and sink. It comes from in front of you, so you never cook in your own shadow.
The light that gives a kitchen character. A statement pendant, lit glass cabinets and shelves, or a glow beneath the plinths that doubles as a night light.
The most common question we are asked about kitchen lighting. Most kitchens need around 150 to 200 lux of general light, with brighter task light over the worktops and island on top.
Enter the size of your kitchen for a starting point on how many downlights to use and how bright each one should be.
A guide only, for the general light. In a real plan the downlights follow the worktops and island rather than a grid, and we work it out for every kitchen.
Recessed spotlights are the backbone of most kitchen lighting, but a grid across the ceiling lights the floor and leaves you in shadow at the worktop.
If you only add one thing to a kitchen, make it under-cabinet lighting. It puts bright, even light right onto the worktop and makes a splashback glow.
Pendant lights over a kitchen island are often the first thing people notice, and the easiest to get wrong. These are the measurements our designers start from.
The details that decide whether a kitchen feels welcoming or clinical, and how to control it all.
Glass roofs, roof lanterns and vaulted ceilings make a kitchen extension bright by day, but leave few obvious places for light at night. There is often no ceiling to recess into, and steel or timber beams can rule out standard fixings.
We plan around the structure. Pendants centred in each lantern, spotlights set into the surrounding flat ceiling, LED concealed along beams or within the upstand, and where nothing standard will fit, a bespoke mounting that does.
See the Reading conservatory kitchen
Recessed spotlights, brass sputnik pendants centred in two roof lanterns and a linear light over the island, in one lighting plan.
See the project
A modern multi-ring pendant for a glass-roofed kitchen, made possible by a mounting base designed for three slanted steel beams.
See the projectCan't see your question? Call us on 0208 342 7009 or visit a showroom.
As a guide, space recessed spotlights about 1 to 1.2 m apart, starting around 50 cm from the wall units. A typical 4 x 3 m kitchen needs six to eight, depending on their brightness and beam angle. Placement matters more than the number: line them up over the worktops rather than in a grid.
Hang the bottom of the pendants around 70 to 80 cm above the worktop. Medium pendants usually sit 60 to 90 cm apart, centre to centre, with the end pendants at least 30 cm in from each end of the island. Taller ceilings and larger shades may need adjusting.
Warm white, between 2700K and 3000K, suits most home kitchens. 3000K gives crisp task light without feeling cold, while 4000K can look clinical in an open-plan room. Keep the same colour temperature across all your kitchen lights so they match.
Position spotlights above the front edge of the worktops, around 40 to 60 cm out from the wall cabinets, so light falls in front of you as you work. Add more over the island and sink, then fill the centre of the room only as much as the ambient light needs.
LED strip in an aluminium profile with a diffuser gives the most even light, with no dots reflected in a glossy worktop. Fit it towards the front of the cabinet, choose a CRI of 90 or above and wire it to a switch so it works with the rest of your lighting.
Kitchens don't have the formal zones that bathrooms do, so standard fittings are fine for most of the ceiling. Close to the hob and sink, where steam and splashes reach, an IP44 or higher fitting is a sensible choice. Your electrician will advise on any fire-rating your ceiling needs.
As early as possible, ideally before first fix. Once the layout is agreed, a lighting plan sets out where every cable, switch and driver goes, so pendants line up with the island and under-cabinet lights have somewhere to connect. Changing it after plastering costs far more.
Hang a pendant from the centre of the lantern and set spotlights into the flat ceiling around it. LED concealed in the lantern upstand or along beams adds a soft glow at night. For glass roofs with steel beams, a bespoke mounting may be needed to hang pendants safely.
Send us your kitchen plan or bring it to a showroom. Our designers will create a lighting plan with every fitting, circuit and switch marked, ready for your electrician, and help you choose the lights to go with it.